Pattern grading in the apparel or fashion industry is the process of converting a sample size into smaller and bigger sizes by using a size specification sheet or grading increments. It does not generate a new shape; it only alters the size of the garment’s actual shape. There are a variety of systems involved in this procedure.
If you are thinking to turn your base size into additional sizes, you can consult professional clothing sample makers who will be able to assist you in this process. Initially, patterns are manufactured only in one single size. The pattern parts are then increased or decreased to build a whole variety of sizes that suits diverse body shapes and sizes while maintaining fit, balance, style, and shape at the same time. Below is the list of the tools that are used by experts for pattern grading.
1. Awl
2. Parallel rules
3. Carpenters pencil
4. Proportional divider
5. French curve
6. Arm Hole curve
7. Tailors square
8. Measuring Tape
9. Grade Ruler
10. Notch Maker
11. Colour sketch pens or pencils
Methods of Pattern Grading
Three basic forms are used by specialists. The goal of each method is to provide dimensionally accurate patterns. Let’s take a brief look at each of the methods.
- Cut and spread method: It is considered to be the easiest manual method for professionals. It involves cutting the design and spreading the pieces to the correct size.
- Pattern shifting method: It is also a type of manual technique used by experts. The fundamentals of this method are left, right, up, and down. To increase the size of the pattern, the new dimensions are put onto another sheet of paper.
- Computer grading: It is the fastest method that is done on a digital platform by using CAD systems.
Pattern grading is a complex process so it is important to consult experts or professionals if you are planning out a clothing line.